This is a great place to go early season, and one of those crags that you wonder how the heck it was found. Really fun climbing, some good curtains form later on in the season. Most mixed routes have kept their original content, indicative of it being pretty solid, kind of like Haffner without the crowds. As usual, this is for info, so some route names may be fully wrong. But you will at least have a solid idea of what, where and what the heck to expect.
Just outside of Banff, is not everything. Take the 1A Highway and within about 200m of the 1A, go right into the pullout, just before the road turns left. There will be a locked gate. Walk up the gated road for about 500m, then look left and you will notice a trail going into the trees. This will take you to the creek. The trail should be fairly well tracked and it heads up the left side of the creek, mostly on the banks. About 20 minutes up, you will pass a big boulder on your left, only about 20 minutes to the uphill. You will be going up and down the bank a few times, when you cross a scree/gravel slope with water running into the creek (from uphill), you are only a few minutes from the uphill. After the wet scree/gravel you will walk up into the bank, under and into some big trees and if you look up, you will notice a scrappy crag to your left, this is where the trail goes uphill. This part of the trail is well worn, about 5 to 10 minutes to the ICE STEP, and if it is not in, climb the rope. From here its about 10 minutes uphill, you really cannot miss it from here.
You can access the top by going to the right of the waterfall, but it may tire you out, as it is a big 3-minute hoof, maybe 5 if you slip. So at the end of the day, just drop the cord and walk off.
Routes from right to left, with the main water-flow as the right-most point.
All Canadian Torque M9: Blue
Technical and powerful, if the ice hasnt come over the top, it really sucks to exit.
Child Care M9-: Yellow
Burly and techy with an exit without ice, but youd certainly like to have some ice on it.
Woody 6+: Red
Great route to a good ice exit; photo of Louis-Julien Roy shot through the waterfall out right.
Hocus Pocus M7: Black
Excellent route, burly and positive, probably the best of its grade, really good ice as well. Be careful clipping bolt#2.
No Love M7-: Green
Fun and technical to wicked ice, be careful clipping bolt #3.
The Only One M8-: Gold
Really burly for the 5 rock moves, then moves right onto ice. The same ice column as for the M7- to the right, but you are way left of it.
Christmas Chopping M8+: Pink
Burly and funky, to a wicked reach onto the ice. Mostly noticeable by the red tat on the last bolt.
Unleash the Frogs M7+:
Climbs the right side of the open book corner to the roof, requires ice for the top. Tecky to burly.
New Route Dumerac M8: Orange
Climb a small ice seepage off the deck, to tooling up steep dirty wall, when it gets climbed more, it will be really good, as it has really good climbing, be very careful clipping bolt #4 at #3 height there are 2 bolts, one right in from of you, the other, way out right, do not clip this one unless you are sticking the draws in. #4 is ground fall high.
So when you know how much I screwed the names/grades up, email me and I will fix them.