This is a place to go when you do not feel like driving, or driving very far. The crag is a bit weird, as the bottom forms ice, usually mid-December. As of mid-January 2005, the bottom ice is great. It is not as warm as you would think, if there is sun, it hits mid Winter from about 2-4pm. The routes are about 15m in height. The bottom ice is about 15ft, to a roof system, to a vertical wall, to another final roof system. Most routes are burly starts for a few bolts, to tecky climbing to really techy finishes. Anchors are either ring bolts or bomber TAT with lockers. The climbing is steeper than you will expect. Park at the Cougar Creek parking lot, then hike past all the SPORT Climbs, all the way back to the Campsite, then as you turn the corner, (left-NW) you will run into it in about 3 minutes. Time to get there is about 45 to 60 minutes, depends on the creek and conditions.
Grades are similar to some of the M8/M8+ routes in Haffner, they climb like Bad Girls on top of the Boyd Mystery. Rather than 1 or 2 hard moves, they have got quite a few in a row out a roof, to them tecky finishes.
Routes from right to left.
7-Minute Stare M8+: RED
Climb up ice, then clip 7 bolts to a ring anchor. The first roof is burly, the second burly, followed by a crux slab, then out the final roof/overlap, to a full on techy finish.
Dick Chainey M8+: YELLOW
Climb ice then you have got about 8 bolts to a locker anchor. The initial roof trends up and right, hang on and then get ready to the tecky/funk finishing overlap.
W! M8: GREEN
Climb ice, an ice screw helps, as its about 20 ft to a hard first clip, harder/higher than the right 2 routes, you have got about 7 bolts to a ring anchor. Climb out the first roof and hold on, burly moves to techy/burly ground, the finish is really solid, just look around.
Assholes of Evil M8-: BLUE
Just left of W, burly start to a party-trick to a great mixed finish.