ICE NINE

 

This is a great place to go when it is cold and sunny. At -25C this crag heats up in the sun to stupidly warm. As you know, cold nights and really warm days cause havoc on them curtains. This area has only 2-mixed sport routes, but they are about as good as you can find anywhere. These routes are steep and have excellent stone. They are also relatively long and the ice really drips in the sunshine, so much that it is like sticking your body into a high-flow shower. Drive on the Banff Jasper Highway 93 North, known as the Banff-Jasper Parkway. About 15 minutes past the Saskatchewan River Crossing, which is about 1.5 hours from the Lake Louise turnoff. Always depends on road conditions. Ice Nine is in an amphitheatre up on the right side. Park just before the drainage/Avalanche bowl. Hike up this bowl for about 30 minutes. For your Hang set up on top of the small ledge, out of the way of the curtain and any ice/snowfall from the above pillars.

 

Routes from right to left.

 

Slaughterhouse M8+ (in a curtain year) M9 in a Non-curtain year (2005):

There is a belay bolt, start straight up, then trend left into the shallow corner/roof.

The 2005 extension of 3 bolts allows you to gain access to the ice over the lip.

 

Photo1

Photo2

 

Bacon M9:

Starts out left of the above curtain, trends right, then straight out the roof system. If the curtain comes over the lip, you can top out, if no curtain, pretty darn hard, as the ice recedes to the top and right.