Haffner Creek is an awesome Mixed Sport-climbing area. Located on the Radium Highway #93, about a 45 minute drive from the town of Canmore. It has one of the best approaches, about 30 minutes of nice walking. Follow the trail that the Park Service sets out, it will make life easier on you, time and the longevity of the area.
Park on the East side of the Highway, next to the Warden summer hut, just around the corner from the Marble Creek CLOSED parking area, the original parking.
This is to be used as a quick guide and reference, for more detailed info and support, www.seanisaac.com the rockies area mixed guide author.
Grades are subjective, and with Mixed Climbing, routes actually change over time, and the amount of Ice truly makes a difference. Use them as a guide, and if you saw a photo of a route with a big amount of ice and your looking at it NOW with no ice, use your noggin, put your ego in your pack and just climb. For rock climbers, whipping with your boots on and tools in your hands can be very dangerous and easily cause injury. So be a bit more aware of where you are and where you may land. I have seen many a rock climber give-er on these climbs and narrowly escape, rarely have I seen an ice climber do the same, as they are used to judging their surroundings and sucking up to escape injury. Hey, if it is a roof and you will not hit anything, that is obvious. But, if your looking at hitting the ground, ledge, or falling off a vertical route, those crampons are not like rock shoes, they will grab, twist an break stuff.
The following are on the Main area only and the Cave.
Burly and a bit of finesse, make it really good, but be prepared to hit the ground, pre-clipping the 3rd is a smart thing.
Boyd Mystery M8:
Burly, but positive, and yes you can hit the ground, so be smart about this one as well.
Green Hanger route M8:
The first bolt seems to move up and down, depending on how big someones package is.
Very good, with ice excellent, without a bit dodgy in the top-out.
Sleek, Boyd and Green get filled in quickly.
Half and Half: M7:
This route is the most varied route in the canyon, it comes in fat, or very thin, so it is either a really good warm up, or as hard as the routes to its left.
This route has morphed from solid M8+ to losing a few holds, to losing all the ice, but concensus seems to be in the 8+/9- range. The ice at the top is really burly and good value.
Girl Without Hooters M9+: New 2004
Great tooling, its got a lot of loaded placements, great exit.
Maybe a bit easier that BuzzBlank, burly roof pull.
The following routes require ice to finish, and since the seasons vary, so will the ability to climb these routes.
Fight Club M8+:
Burly and NEEDs ice to finish.
Sunday Morning Blumpy M8:
Burly and really nice, needs Ice to finish.
Pick Bender M8:
Not the real name, but has bent many picks, need Ice to finish.
Mini Me M7:
Close to Shagadelic, and you can complete without Ice, but maybe M8
The classic route, usually has a good amount of ice, when it does, it makes the ledge move a lot more mentally positive.
Starts up the ice ramp to the right, then climbs the right side of the pillar
Half a Gronk M6:
Start up the ice ramp, then pull into corner, usually a long sling on 3rd bolt.
There are 2 more bolt to ice routes between HaG and the right ice flow, but usually fill in very quickly.
The Roof Route M9-:
Again not the real name, but will get you there. The holds keep disappearing, as it is an often tried and climbed route, you can start off the ice right under the roof M8. Sounds easy, as you skip the first 3 moves, but is a lot more than you expect, just to pull up.
Shwing your Ding M7+: New 2004
Just left of Swank, climb a bit of the bottom of Swank, then head a bit left and then straight up to the ice, finish. Left side of ice, Swank, you decide, but goes to the Swank Anchor.
Classic, good burl with good burl ice moves.
Shwanz M8-: New 2004
Starts just to the right of Swank and left of Good Girls Gone Bad, straight up into the broken corner, then to the Swank Anchor.
Good Girls Gone Bad M8-:
Burly and technical, with ice at the top, its got a set of own anchors.
Up canyon about 2 minutes is a classic New route,
Maximum Impact M7
Burly start of 3 bolts to ice to slabby technical ice finish, do not be expecting Shagadellic, be expecting Swank to a Shag. Finish.
Up canyon are some more routes, then a short ice step about 7m high, this is the access to the Hoar Cave. There is a walk around access trail just before the main trail hit the mouth of the main canyon (up on your left) Follow it, then circumnavigate along the top of the canyon, maybe a trail, but it not, keep a bit high. You will come to a small hill top it, follow canyon again, you will then need to drop down a small hill, where you will notice a large tree on the edge of the cliff, and above it a small cliff band, head to this, follow cliff band until it sets you onto a slope, which you can walk down into the canyon. About 3 minute walk back down canyon to the Cave.
From the left, down canyon,
Red, Mojo 8+; Yellow,Girl 9+; Green, BuzzBlank 9; Blue, Oscar 8+/9-; Purple, Fight Club 8+; Yellow, Sunday 8; Green, Pick Bender8; Light Blue, Mini Me7+; Red, Shagadelic7; Orange, Californication 5; Purple, Half a Gronk 6
** You cannot see the roof/start of the routes, drops down about 10ft**
Red, Roof route8+/9-; Blue, Swing 7+; Yellow, Swank 8-; Green, Swanz 8-; Purple, Good Girls 8-
THE HOAR CAVE:
Dick Jones M7:
Left side of the cave, climbs out and left into a funnel at the top.
Cave Man M10-: (Roof) [YELLOW]
Awseome, has a tough roof start, ground fall potential, holds have fallen off, and with the heel spurring, a new hold has been created, so you can do it the sort of original way, but who knows how long it will last. People bitch and wine about sequences, grading its hard and pumpy with heel spurring. Of course it is harder without spurs
Piltdown Man M12: (Roof) [BLUE]
Starts to the right of Caveman, climb out roof corner, 4 bolts, then when you make the large deadpoint out the lip, traverse right on 3 bolts, pull the next lip, track right into the last 3 bolts of Neolithic. Power Endurance.
Neolithic M11+/12-: (Roof/Steep) [RED]
Feels like hard Bouldering to steep pumpy decent hold climbing. If you find the exit on Cave Man hard, you have only got about 5 of those moves in the upper 1/3rd of this rig. Oh yeah, a technical finish with a couple of thin ice smears. To the heel spur brigade hooking you tools does you no good on this route, as body tension and loading your tools is all that is keeping you on.
Fire Roasted JCs Rig M10/+: Steep [GREEN]
Big pulls on an overhanging wall, to a roof, then up the headwall. Very good route, harder than Caveman and the Fire Roasted tree comes in handy, but not so friendly.
Homoerectus M8/8+ [PURPLE]
Big pulls on an overhanging wall, it is pumpy and burlier than it looks. Very good route and an excellent warm-up for the cave.