The Bayon, Heart Creek

Grades: Always an issue, but important.

I've gone back to the a,b,c,d and even a few SLASH grades – so let’s be as real as possible and consensus them out.

 

Gear:

You don't need a 60m rope, most routes are short, but a Stick clip is not only advantageous, but pretty much the way most of the routes were put up. There is water, you cross the creek about 7 times. Short bouldery, hard and fun.

Heart Creek is a short, very good, nice walk, up to 13+: Bring a STICK; many 1st bolts are WAY off the ground!

Parking is accessed similar to Acephale, by taking the Heart Creek Exit, re-entering the #1 going east, and at the crest of the hill, you can either part west of the creek, or east of the creek; depending on how many cars there are. The trail is well established and you may run into walkers, hikers, picnickers, and other climbers. The wall to hit is the BAYON, an excellent concentration of 5.13s. Short, bouldery and tough on the skin. The wall is at the end of the main trial, (any further and you in water) to the right and into the trees from the Waterfall wall, about 30 minutes from the parking area on a gentle 'up' walk. Described from left to right (closest to the waterfall).

Click on photos!

Bayon shot:

Old Timer, furthest left, up a slope, then a bit of a slab to a big ledge.

13c

13m

Beat Farmer, climb the slab left of big boulder, then go left, PS goes up and a bit right off the top of slab. Purple

11d

18m

Palm Sisters, climb the slab left of big boulder, then go straight up, or up corner, can be a bit ugly, but from the 3rd and up is some of the best climbing, get ready for the anchor. Blue

11d

18m

 

 

Arm and a leg, up boulder, then left. Deep Blue

12a

18m

Mumblebunny, up boulder, off right top edge, to the obvious corner, then straight up out small roof. Think 12c. Red

12b

18m

MB Direct, Start off dirt, fall off, break some holds, then wonder WTF? Yeah, but it's hard. Orange

13b

18m

Kung Pow, up boulder, off right top edge, to the obvious corner, then go right onto the grey stone, then straight up at the 2nd bolt.

12b

18m

Tub Trauma, right of boulder, up to the left side of big hole, sloper. Think crimpy old school to a gym boulder problem, just don't think too much. Yellow

13a

13m

 

 

Johnstone Rig, Start up Tub, then go right into hole and up to the top right of the hole

?

15m

Barberella/Barbwire, Climb up either side of left facing corner, and then hold on, track left into JR. Orange

13b

15m

Intergalactic Planetary, Climb up either side of left facing corner, and then hold on, track right and straight up. Black

13b

15m

May the Funk be With You, Glue in bolts up corner/roofs, noticeable by the tree.

13a

15m

 

 

Salty, Glue ins, up and out the roof, right of MTF, slopers, techy and burly, Classic. Purple

13a

15m

Dutch Boy Magic, right of Salty, regular hangers, techy and slopey. Dark Red

12d

15m

 

There are 2 boulder problem routes at the right end of the wall, where if falls off and into the drainage gulley.

Hecubus, Glue ins, crimpy and boulder problem with a rope, 2 bolts. Dark Green

V7

5-7m

Clump, boulder problem, crimpy, 2 bolts, but it'll get you ready for the wall. Light Green

V5

5-7m

 

Map:

Websites:

Sport and Mixed Climbing

TABVAR